Embellishing this recipe for plain bagels is as easy as sprinkling on your favorite topping just before baking.

1. In a large bowl, combine 1 cup water, sugar, and yeast. Stir to dissolve and let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes.

2. Add oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and enough bread flour to create a firm dough. Add flour only to reduce stickiness. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead 8–10 minutes. Return to bowl, dust the top with flour, and cover with a damp cloth or plastic wrap. Rise at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

3. Spray a baking sheet with pan spray and sprinkle with cornmeal. Turn risen dough onto a floured surface and shape into a rope, about 3″ thick. Slice 2″ pieces off the rope, then roll each into a tight ball. Leave balls on the floured surface, dust with flour, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and proof for 10 minutes.

4. Preheat oven to 425°F. Combine milk and 1 quart water in a large, deep skillet. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Working with 1 roll at a time, poke your finger down through its center, and on a well-floured surface, begin spinning the roll to open up a large center hole. Make the hole large, as it will close in during baking.

5. Drop each formed bagel into simmering milk and water mixture, and poach 30 seconds on each side. Remove, tap off excess liquid, and place on prepared baking sheet, seam-side down. Mix egg with a pinch of salt and brush lightly onto bagels. Place a pan of water on the oven floor to create steam, and bake until brown, about 20–25 minutes. Cool completely on a rack.